Anhydrous Icon Assyrtiko 2020

Anhydrous is the Santorini project from leading Evia winery Avantis estate. It translates as “without water” which references the seemingly parched growing conditions on this unique, volcanic island. Here the basket-trained or “kouloura” vines both protect the grapes from the high winds and scorching heat, while reducing evaporation from the sandy volcanic soils.

Apostolos and Lenga Montrichas of Avantis Estate began making wine on Santorini in 2012 and in 2020 opened their own winery and cellar door in a converted outdoor cinema on the outskirts of Thira, the capital of Santorini.

The Icon Assyrtiko is made from old vines grown around the village of Pyrgos, the highest village of the island, and home to many of the best vineyards. Only 800 bottles are made, which is the volume that will fit into the recently acquired pair of concrete eggs. Inside these the wine continually rotates around a naturally occurring vortex, allowing constant gentle manipulation of the yeast lees, which imparts a subtle textural element and an intensely mineral character to the wine

On the nose hints of peach skin and greengage, under a veil of sea air and smoky minerals. The wine is fiercely concentrated and the rapier acidity tempered by the ageing process. The palate is dripping with saline mineral character, and speaks clearly of the wine’s origins. A fascinating wine, it should be decanted before drinking, and will develop over the next 10 years or more